Tag: Travel

Aix-en Provence, France & a disappointing Simenon novel

My youngest is currently doing her university year abroad in the south of France so I have been lucky enough to have made two visits there in recent weeks. I have been to France many times and it is a country that is difficult not to love. Paris is probably my favourite city in the entire world, I love Brittany and Normandy, the distinctive scenery and coastal towns, and I love the south and south west too – Biarritz, the Pyrenees, Bordeaux, Langeudoc, it’s all wonderful. Provence is an area that I know less well, so it has been a joy to discover a bit more about it on my recent visits.

Aix-en-Provence dates back to Roman times, but had its heyday in the medieval era and much of the architecture of that period remains, including the magnificant Cathedral of Saint Saveur. It is a city of two halves with narrow, angular streets on one side of the Cours Mirabeau and a more orderly grid-like arrangement on the other.

The beautiful Caumont art gallery
You can take tea in one of its magnificent tea rooms or overlooking the pretty gardens

Much of the night-life, bars and restaurants, takes place in the medieval part of the town, while the other side feels more high-brow – here you will find the Centre Caumont, a beautiful art gallery, and the school where the town’s most famous son, Paul Cézanne, was educated.

The Cours Mirabeau itself is a wide and impressive boulevard lined with magnificent plane trees that offer welcome shade from the Mediterranean sun. Aix is known as the city of fountains and there are certainly some beautiful ones and some interesting ones to see, not least the huge Fontaine de la Rotonde at the top of Cours Mirabeau and the 17th century Fontaine Mossue which was apparently once used by washerwomen . Not any more though.

There are two mossy fountains on Cours Mirabeau – this one has been switched off!

My husband is a committed Francophile and lover of French literature, and recommended The Dancer at the Gai Moulin, a novel by Georges Simenon, one of his Maigret novels, as my reading accompaniment. I fear that the translation I read was not the best as I found it slow and unengaging. I’ve read other novels by Simenon, considered one of France’s best writers, which I enjoyed more, but this translation lacked subtlety and did not bring out the depth of the characters, particularly the famous Inspector Maigret himself, which was unfortunate. You can read my review on my Goodreads page. Émile Zola also spent part of his early life here and attended the same school as Cezanne, the Collège Mignet on Rue Cardinale.

We visited the city of Marseiile while I was there, on a day when there was a substantial protest by students, which has featured much in the international news lately. There was certainly an ‘edge’ to the city on that day and public transport was somewhat disrupted but the protest itself seemed fairly contained. There were a lot of police around. My daughter tells me there have been protests in Aix too, and though noisy and, again, a little disruptive to daily life, they have been peaceful. She has also heard that conditions in some schools are poor (though she felt comparable to her own secondary school in the UK) and young people have some legitimate claims.

Aix is a town with a rich history and a vibrant cultural life. I feel very fortunate that my daughter is spending time there as I will be very happy to be a frequent visitor in the coming months!

Summer travel in Scotland

I wrote last week that September always feels like the start of the year to me. This is the first year since 2005 when I am not bound by any academic term dates (my youngest is studying languages and is on a year abroad), but it will take me a while to adjust I think. So, as we find ourselves post-Autumn equinox I have been reflecting on the year so far. It has been a busy one, not least with lots of travelling, a privilege and a joy, but it has meant that my blog has taken the hit because my day job has been a lot more demanding this year too.

This summer I fulfilled a long-held ambition to do a road trip in Scotland. A work client mentioned to me a while ago that she and her husband had spent their honeymoon in the Outer Hebrides and when she showed me photos of Luskentyre beach I felt immediately drawn to it.

We had two weeks and Scotland is a big place so we necessarily limited our ambitions (otherwise we would have spent the whole time in the car!) and decided to focus on the west coast and a few of the islands. Even then, there were a number of places where we would have loved to stay longer, Fort William for example.

After spending a couple of days in the historic city of Glasgow, we drove to the Ardnamurchan peninsula, which, although part of the mainland, is separated from the rest of Argyll by the very long and wide Loch Linnhe. We crossed at the narrowest point, the Corran ferry, which entails quite a drive north via the stunning (and in August very busy) Glencoe mountain range. Ardnamurchan is completely different and we encountered few other tourists. We stayed in a small hotel overlooking the beautiful and peaceful Loch Shiel. From there we were also able to explore the beautiful Isle of Mull, via the ferries at Kilchoan (to Tobermory) and Lochaline (to Fishnish). Tobermory was a highlight for me as it was the setting for Balamory, a favourite TV show my kids used to watch when they were little.

From Ardnamurchan we drove to the Isle of Skye, which was beautiful, but just felt so busy. It is close to the mainland and accessible by a half-kilometer road bridge. The bridge opened in 1995 and has clearly brought a great deal of tourism to the island. Our next stop was the Isle of Harris and Lewis (it’s one island but has two distinct parts), the Outer Hebrides, and the highlight of the whole trip for me. It is not easy to get to – you have to travel to Uig, at the northernmost part of Skye, and then take the 1 hour 40 minute ferry journey to Tarbert. From there it was another 40 minute drive to our cottage overlooking Loch Eireasort. Distant, but so worth it! We arrived on a Sunday, and everything was closed, apart from the llama sanctuary near the legendary Callanish Standing Stones – luckily we’d bought some groceries in Uig. We were able to visit the stones, but even the visitor centre was closed. This felt like a throwback to my 70s childhood!

Our days on Harris and Lewis were magical. And we got to see the stunning Luskentyre beach! The sun shined the whole time, though I think we were very lucky. While there I read Graeme McCrae Burnet’s 2025 novel Benbecula – this is another island in the Outer Hebrides, nestled between North and South Uist. I also began Douglas Stuart’s Booker-shortlisted John of John, set on Harris and Lewis. It was fascinating to read these two books in the remote and special part of the world they were set and it gave me a really interesting perspective on the novels. Look out for my reviews of these books in the next couple of weeks.

We ended our road trip in Edinburgh, to see our youngest performing at the Fringe, stopping in Fort William on the way. We are already planning to go back next year, to do more cycling and more walking and to see more the islands that we missed. I recommend this part of the world highly!

Staying still

I have been doing so much travelling this last few weeks that my blogging has fallen by the wayside. I have missed it! The bookblogging community is so well-populated with nice people, interesting perspectives and authentic passion that it gives me all the online socialising I need and I steer pretty well clear of most other social media. (Not that I would place blogging in the same category as those other types of AI-powered platforms.) I am just back from a bucket-list trip to Turkey and now have a few weeks of going hardly anywhere and quite a lot of work to help pay for all the travel! So, this year I did not go to the Hay Festival (although listening to various shows on the radio that were broadcast from there I confess to feeling a deep sense of FOMO) and I will not be going to Dublin for Bloomsday in a couple of weeks time. Next year.

There has been quite a literary twist to all my travel. I have researched the best bookshops and always try to buy a locally-themed book.

I had a marvellous week in Berlin, which was my husband’s ‘big birthday’ treat! There is no end of interesting things to see and do there and my particular highlights were the Jewish Museum (an extraordinary building designed by Daniel Libeskind), the Neues Museum, with its outstanding collection of Egyptian and ancient artefacts, and, slightly less highbrow, the KaDeWe department store! We also visited the Brecht-Weigel museum which was the modest but fascinating home of Bertolt Brecht and his long-time partner Helene Weigel. We sought out a bookshop of course and found the marvellous Dussmann on Friedrichstrasse, a few minutes’ walk from the Brandenburger Tor. I bought myself a translated version of the German post-war classic Alone in Berlin by Hans Fallada. Look out for my review of that soon (assuming I start getting my blogging act together!).

In March we paid a visit to an old family friend in Ross-on-Wye. It’s very close to Hay-on-Wye of course, but not somewhere I had previously visited. It’s a lovely town, but the highlight was going to Tintern and seeing the wonderful, Tintern Abbey, subject of one of Wordsworth’s best-loved poems.

And finally, earlier this month, I went on a holiday to Turkey, fulfilling a lifelong ambition. It’s not so very far away or even very expensive to visit so I’m not sure how I have not been there before. I joined a tour organised by Intrepid Travel (who I cannot recommend highly enough) which took us to some of the most famous sights in the country. Ephesus was a highlight – I have such vivid memories of being a child and seeing pictures of the facade of the Celsus Library and dreaming of far-off travel! Istanbul is a fantastic city, so vibrant, and with a beautiful church or mosque around every corner. And the Bosphorus of course and the obligatory boat trip – which does live up to the hype. The city is blessed with many bookshops and I loved Minoa Pera – I had to buy myself Istanbul by Orhan Palmuk. And Cappadocia and the Goreme national park with its extraordinary rock formations.

It seems appropriate that the last two pictures above are of the Celsus Library at Ephesus and the stairs in the Minoa Pera bookshop in Istanbul!

I have had quite the most incredible few weeks and feel myself very fortunate indeed. Now, back to blogging. And some healthy eating and exercise. And some work I suppose….

January travel – Marrakech and Bucharest

I had the great good fortune to add two new places to my list of countries visited last month – Morocco and Romania. It is not usual for me to travel early in the new year, not least because I am usually running around taking kids to university, as well as recovering from the cost of Christmas! But I happened to see an opportunity for a very cheap (and quite short) break in Marrakech and we were invited to a christening in Bucharest. It did mean that this usually rather bleak month passed satisfyingly quickly, and I got through a fair bit of reading whilst travelling. Here are some photos of my trips.

Top row – El Badi Palace

Bottom row (L-R) – restaurant overlooking Jemaa el-Fnaa; Madrasa Ben Youssef; wandering through the souks; Koutoubia mosque at daybreak

Marrakech is a stunning place to visit, with all the senses assaulted at once. January was a great time to go, it was 16-18 degrees and not too crowded. I will definitely return, so much still to see.

Top row – Carturesti Carusel bookshop; Church of Saint Vissarion

Middle row (L-R) – National Museum of the Romanian Peasant; example of domestic art and craft; The Little Paris Museum

Bottom row – Palace of Parliament

Bucharest on the other hand was FREEZING! It’s an interesting place that is still coming out of a very dark period in its history. The Palace of Parliament was built by the former dictator Nicolae Ceausescu and appears to be mostly a vanity project he conceived following a visit to North Korea. It is enormous and is said to be the heaviest administrative building in the world. I don’t know how this could be verified but it apparently contains 2.5 million tonnes of marble.

I am always interested to find out about literary connections to places I visit. I’m afraid to say I am not familiar with any Moroccan authors, although I have heard of French Moroccan author Leila Slimani – I think I may have read her novel Adèle (published in English in 2019, the original French is called Dans le jardin de l’ogre and was published in 2014). Mohamed Choukri (1935-2003) is another internationally renowned Moroccan author whose autobiography, For Bread Alone, recounts his early life surrounded by violence and poverty and then his self-education and flowering as a writer. Something else to add to the TBR list!

I was even less familiar with Romanian literature, although I was delighted to visit the beautiful Carturesti Carusel bookshop in Bucharest (coincidentally, this also featured on the January page of my 2026 bookshops of the world calendar!) I bought a copy of Mircea Cartarescu’s 1989 novel Nostalgia, which is said to be a surrealist cult masterpiece. Romanian-French playwright Eugene Ionescu is perhaps the most famous writer to emerge from that country, another surrealist and considered part of the ‘Theatre of the Absurd’ school.

I recommend both of these cities for a visit if you have the opportunity. January is the perfect time to visit Marrakech, in my view, but perhaps Bucharest might be better in the spring!

May chronicles

I’ve had another long break from blog posting, but I’m happy to report that I have had a busy month of travelling, some near and some far. It was my middle child’s 21st birthday so we made a short trip to the beautiful city of Cambridge for a family celebration. Hotel accommodation in Cambridge can be pricey and I have found that the cheaper accommodation can be hit and miss and seldom has free parking. So we stayed a little outside town at the wonderful Madingley Hall. It belongs to the University and there seemed to be some conference groups there, although it is a substantial property and was by no means full. It was beautiful, with fabulous grounds and is close to one of the park and ride facilities so I recommend it highly if you are thinking of going there.

Madingley Hall, Cambridge

A few days after the birthday I set off for Egypt! I always enjoyed travelling when I was younger, but since having my children this has been on the back burner. Our holidays have been family affairs and we have tended to stick to UK and European destinations with the kids. This has also been the first year in about two decades (!) when I have not been bound by school holidays. My husband has a busy work schedule and is less interested in exotic locations than me so I took myself off alone! Well, not exactly alone…I went on a group tour, feeling that perhaps I needed to build my confidence a bit with solo travel before going it completely alone. I could not have made a better decision! I travelled with a company called Intrepid and the tour was fantastic. It was a very international group- Australians, New Zealanders, US, Canadian and Italian citizens and even a couple of other Brits! Such a wonderful and interesting group of people, we bonded really well and I am missing them all so much. Our tour guide was brilliant, so knowledgeable about ancient Egyptian history and culture.

I had the most marvellous time and as soon as I came back I was on Intrepid’s website thinking about my next trip! Some of my fellow travellers went on to Jordan and looking at their Instagram posts I think that might be next on my list. I’ve posted some photos below. Egypt is an incredible country, with beautiful friendly people and I will definitely go back there.

I had a few days to find my feet again and catch up on laundry before I was off again, this time on what has become an annual visit for me – to the Hay Festival. For the past couple of years I have camped at the Tangerine Fields site just outside Hay on Wye, but I decided I am over camping! I stayed in a B&B in Talgarth, about 10 minutes drive from the Festival site.

I was there for three days and, as usual, had a fantastic time. There were two particular highlights for me: my final event on Saturday evening was a talk from Radiohead bass player Colin Greenwood, who has recently published a book of photographs he has taken over the years performing and recording with his band. He was very warm and candid and clearly exhausted having just returned from touring the US with Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds. Despite this he spent almost two hours afterwards signing copies of his book How to Disappear, chatting to fans and having selfies with them – such a pro. My other highlight was seeing Kate Mosse and Jacqueline Wilson, two giants of the literary scene. Apparently, between them, they have sold 50 million books worldwide – staggering. The pair are great friends and talked about their writing habits, their current projects and many other topics. They were both so down to earth and modest.

My other events were Jeremy Bowen, BBC International Editor and often to be found reporting from the Middle East or Ukraine – I have seen him at Hay before. Listening to him is sobering indeed. I saw Hallie Rubenhold, author of best-selling non-fiction book The Five about the women victims of Jack the Ripper. she has just published a book about the case of Dr Crippen and his lover, who murdered Crippen’s first wife. She was very interesting. Less interesting was Jeremy Hunt MP. Politicians are usually good value at Hay, but I’m afraid Mt Hunt had disappointingly little gossip! He has just published a book talking about how Britain can be great again, but it struck me as somewhat blinkered about how we became un-great in the first place. His interviewer Robert Peston was a little more entertaining.


A few photos of my Hay Festival experience below.

I am looking forward to a bit of staying put in June! The winner of the Women’s Prize will be announced next week (12th June). I have a couple of reviews to post of books on the shortlist that I have read, so will aim to get those out in the next few days.

Postcard from Venice

I have started the year as I hope to go on, fulfilling a long-held travel ambition! I have visited Venice a couple of times (once about 12 years ago when my kids were still quite young, and once when I was 18 and went inter-railing in Europe) and on both occasions it was mid-summer, very hot and very, very busy. Ever since, I have wanted to experience Venice in the winter season and last week, with no school term dates holding us back, my husband and I made the trip, spending 6 glorious days in this unique city. One of our favourite films is Nicholas Roeg’s Don’t Look Now (1973), starring Donald Sutherland and Julie Christie. It tells the story of a couple, grieving after the death of their young daughter, in a very grey wintry Venice, where Sutherland’s character is restoring a church. The setting is so atmospheric and ever since seeing it I have fantasised about being Julie Christie wandering along empty the alleyways and bridges over deserted canals!

Needless to say it wasn’t quite like that – it was still quite busy, although not nearly as much as spring through to autumn. But the Venetians were warm and friendly, less harassed perhaps than at other times of the year, there were no queues for the big tourist sights (by closing time at Basilica San Marco we had the place practically to ourselves) and good restaurants had plenty of tables. It was well worth compromising on the weather to get the more authentic experience (it was chilly but we did have some bright sunny days) and although Venice is never ‘cheap’ you can definitely get more hotel for your money out of season. Here are a few of my holiday snaps!

Inside the Palazzo Ducale
The breathtaking interior of Basilica San Marco
Palazzo Ducale

As well as beauty, culture, and fascinating history, Venice has a distinguished literary pedigree. Shakespeare set two plays in the city (Othello and The Merchant of Venice). He also set two plays in nearby Verona – Romeo and Juliet and The Two Gentlemen of Verona). We stopped for a night in Verona before heading to Venice – another truly beautiful and fascinating city – and you can visit ‘Juliet’s balcony’ (left). Scholars disagree on whether Shakespeare visited the Veneto but he certainly had a feel for the area and its stories.

A plaque in Verona commemorating Shakespeare’s connection to the city

Lord Byron, of course, famously spent a lot of time in Venice (he loved Italy), occupying a palazzo near San Marco, and referenced it in his poetry. In the nineteenth and early twentieth century American author Henry James wrote about his love of Venice, and John Ruskin wrote a three volume compendium on the art and architecture of Venice. More recently, the Russian American poet and philosopher Joseph Brodsky and American poet Ezra Pound are both buried in the island cemetery of San Michele in Venice. And finally one of my favourite books is set on the Lido – Death in Venice by Thomas Mann, also a brilliant film starring Dirk Bogarde.

So, a definite bucket list trip for me! I highly recommend Venice in the winter.

Literary sightseeing: James Joyce’s Dublin

I have been visiting Dublin for many years now as my husband is Irish and most of his family is still there. I have always wanted to visit on ‘Bloom’s Day’ (June 16th) – the date on which the whole of the events in Joyce’s seminal work Ulysses is set. However, since this falls in the middle of school term time, this has not so far been possible for me. Maybe next year! On this particular day (in fact, the whole of the week from what I gather), Joyce enthusiasts dress up in the fashions of the time and replicate Harold Bloom’s odyssey through his home town on that day.

I have visited a few of the many sites that occur in the book, however, and on our visit this summer I added a couple more to the list. Perhaps if I don’t get to ‘Bloom’s Day’ soon I’ll do my own little one day tour! Here is a broad itinerary if you happen to be in Dublin’s fair city not on 16th June.

Stop 1 – Sandycove and the Martello Tower

The opening scenes of Ulysses (Telemachus episode) take place in the Martello Tower (built by the British as a defence against Napoleon, who never invaded) at Sandycove. Joyce stayed here briefly when it belonged to his friend Oliver St John Gogarty. In the book, Buck Mulligan lives here and he and his two companions take breakfast following a swim in the ‘Forty Foot’, a bathing pool in the sea below the tower, which is still there.

Today, the tower houses the James Joyce museum, which has been run almost entirely by volunteers for many years, with only very limited funding. Entry is free and you can see a number of artefacts inside, as well as get a good sense of Joyce’s life and career.

Sandycove can be reached on the DART train from Dublin city centre.

Stop 2 – Sandymount Strand

Leopold Bloom takes walk here at sunset. It is a beautiful spot with fantastic views across Dublin Bay, with the iconic chimneys at Ringsend, the mouth of the Liffey. At low tide, you can walk the vast sands where work is being done here to preserve rare grasses. When the tide is in, you can walk along the promenade, along with many other Dubliners.

Sandymound Strand is a few stops north of Sandycove on the DART train.

Stop 3 – Dublin City Centre

Within the city you can walk along many of the same streets that Leopold Bloom (or Stephen Dedalus) took. I would begin at O’Connell Street (and perhaps drop in at the General Post Office while you’re there. Although not directly Joyce related, there is a fantastic museum that tells the story of the independence movement and in particular the 1916 Easter Rising, which centred on the GPO.)

From O’Connell Street you can walk south, cross the Liffey, to Trinity College (you can book tours of the famous library and view the Book of Kells), and then on to Grafton Street, Kildare Street and Merrion Square. All these locations appear in the Wandering Rocks episode.

From Merrion Square it’s a short walk then to Sweny’s Pharmacy, which I mentioned when I wrote a blog post about my visit to Dublin a few weeks ago. The shop remained a pharmacy until 2008, and the owners had changed very little of the interior from how it would have been in Joyce’s time, recognising its future tourism potential. Bloom called into Sweny’s to pick up a tonic for his wife and bought some lemon soap, a bar of which you can still purchase there today. It is run by volunteer Joyce enthusiasts, where they will chat happily to you about the author, the shop’s history, and hold weekly meetings where they read from his work.

You can get the DART from Sandymount to Connolly station, from which it is a short walk to O’Connell street. The above walking route is about 3km.

Stop 4 – Glasnevin cemetery

Glasnevin Cemetery appears in the Hades episode of Ulysses when Bloom travels there with his friends for the funeral of Paddy Dignam. It is a fascinating place with many famous Irish figures buried here including Michael Collins, Eamon De Valera, Maud Gonne, Brendan Behan and Christy Brown. Pre-booked tours are available.

The cemetery is a few kilometres out of the city centre, but there are several bus routes that pass it. Dublin buses have an excellent app where you can work out which service to get from wherever you are.

On your way there you will likely pass O’Connell Street again and can call in at the small but very interesting James Joyce cultural centre on North Great George’s Street. It is housed in one of the typical Georgian townhouses that Dublin is famous for. Another interesting stopover is the Hugh Lane Gallery. Hugh Lane was a contemporary of Joyce who established a superb art collection. He was killed in the RMS Lusitania which sank off Cork in 1915.

It is possible to visit many more Ulysses ‘sites’ than I have listed here. I can recommend the book The Ulysses Guide: Tours through Joyce’s Dublin by Robert Nicholson, which provides several detailed itineraries complete with the relevant extracts from the book.

Dublin is a fantastic city to visit with so much to see in a relatively compact area. Though Joyce spent much of his adult life outside Ireland, Dublin is at the heart of so much of his work.

Postcard from The Netherlands

We have been regular visitors to The Netherlands for twenty years now and have a small holiday home in the south of the country in the province of Zeeland. The southernmost part of the province (Zeeuws Vlanderen, or Zeelandic Flanders) is an area that has no land border with the rest of the country, being separated from it by the mighty Scheldt river, one of the primary waterways into the heart of Europe. When we first visited Zeeuws Vlanderen you reached it either by a very long detour via Antwerp in Belgium or a small car ferry between the ports of Vlissingen and Breskens. It made it feel remote. Then the opening of a 6km tunnel at the industrial town of Terneuzen transformed journey times and the economy of this part of the country. It has made Zeeuws Vlanderen more accessible and it certainly feels a little less remote these days. We tend to travel there via Calais in France, as it is less than 2 hours drive.

My daughters are both studying for exams this summer and we all needed a change of scene, so we decided to take a short break. The weather wasn’t great and the travel chaos was even less great, but it did us the world of good. This is such an under-rated part of Europe (the only visitors tend to be Dutch, Belgian or German), but for us it was like medicine for the soul!

Friday, 1 April

Bumper to bumper at the Eurotunnel!

We leave home straight after the end of school and drive to the Eurotunnel port at Folkestone, a journey of 275 miles. We make good progress, which stalls completely once we are diverted off the M20 (a section of which had been turned into a lorry park, under Operation Brock). The volume of traffic is such that the 2-3 mile journey from Eurotunnel motorway junction to the passenger terminal takes almost three hours! At least once we arrive in France, there is almost no traffic on the roads and we arrive at our destination in the early hours of the morning.

Saturday, 2 April

A long lie-in then a trip to the nearest supermarket in Breskens and a leisurely lunch, which must involve frites!

More vakantie apartements in Breskens

A stroll around this small town shows that since our last visit, more tourist developments have sprung up. I am happy to see this lovely place thriving, not least since it will benefit us, as we rent out our holiday home, but a part of me has mixed feelings; I’m not sure I want lots of tourists here!

Some of the lake’s permanent residents pay us a visit!

The weather is cold, colder than I have ever experienced here in the spring, but we are just happy to be away…and enjoying the wildlife.

One of our favourite things to do here is to take an evening stroll on the dyke beside the village. The views are always rewarding.

Sunday, 3 April

We take a trip to Brussels, to collect my husband from the airport, as he was unable to travel with us on Friday. It’s about 100km, or a 90 minute drive. I am nervous navigating the complicated ring road and finding city centre parking, but it is Sunday morning and therefore less busy. It is still cold, but it’s bright and sunny. Brussels is a beautiful city. It is also big. We stick to exploring the old town, which reminds me of Bruges minus the canals, and enjoy sipping coffee on pavement cafes, hearing clocks chiming the hour, wonderful shops, confectioners and more frites.

Monday, 4 April

No trip to Zeeland for us is complete without a day in Middelburg. This place is a hidden treasure – I’m almost afraid to mention it! This medieval town retains much of its traditional architecture and yet it has the atmosphere of an everyday working place. The quality of life here must be wonderful. My husband and I have often fantasised about renting a house here for a few months once our children have left home! There is a wonderful town square, with its spectacular town hall, edged by pavement cafes and restaurants, a museum, grand churches, picturesque canals and bridges, lovely shops, the best bookshop in southern Holland (De Drukkery), a student population and of course, coffee and frites! We often cycle here from our holiday home – we can bike to the ferry at Breskens and then cycle the 8km beside the canal, using the excellent Dutch cycle paths. But it is too cold and wet today, even for all but the hardiest of Dutch cyclists.

Tuesday, 5 April

The day begins with appelflappen from the village bakery. Then we decide to head to the smart Belgian coastal town of Knokke-Heist, an attractive seaside resort which seems to consist mainly of second homes. It is quiet on a Tuesday. Most of the residential buildings are apartments, weekend homes for a wealthy Brussels elite, most likely. There are many beautiful art galleries and expensive shops, most of which only open at weekends. It has a vast beach, much of which is taken up with beach huts and cafes and bars, and a wide and long promenade. Knokke is only 30 km from our house and we have visited it often over the years. One of our favourite things to do when the children were younger was to take the Kusttram which runs for 67 km along the coast from Knokke to De Panne. You can get on and off to explore the different towns and attractions en route. Today we stayed in Knokke and just strolled around, and sampled yet more frites and ice-cream.

Wednesday, 6 April

Our short break is over and it’s time to head home. The return journey is thankfully less eventful than the one getting here. We are astonished by the size of the queue of what appear to be thousands of lorries stranded on the M20, waiting to get into Dover. My heart goes out to those drivers, who have no facilities and only the food they will have brought with them.

I did not do much reading while I was away, it being primarily a family holiday with quite a bit more packed in than we had intended.

December in pictures

A regular monthly post recalling the month past more in pictures than in words.

My reading in December

A trip to Southend and an exhibition at the Beecroft Gallery of the work of the East London Group of painters

Canvey Island, Essex. Research.

Book review: “Wild: A journey from lost to found” by Cheryl Strayed

When we first meet Cheryl, the author and narrator, she is lost. At the tender age of 26 she finds herself in a dark place, at the bottom of a downward spiral that began when she lost her 46 year-old mother to cancer four years earlier. Cheryl is one of three siblings, brought up mostly in a single parent family, the mother having left the children’s violent alcoholic father when they were still very young. The mother later married Eddie, a calm and steady influence, and they lived a humble, fairly rural and, most importantly, stable existence. With her mother’s death, however, Cheryl’s life begins to collapse in on her. She and her siblings seem unable to bond in their grief, Eddie drifts away and soon finds another partner and step-children who quickly take over the family home, and Cheryl sets off on a path of toxic behaviour (infidelity, drug-taking and serial unemployment) that will drive a wedge between her and her husband.

Thus the scene is set. When she has reached rock-bottom, Cheryl decides that they only thing she can possibly do is set out on a 1,100 mile solo hike on one of the toughest trails in north America. The Pacific Crest Trail runs from the Mexican border in the south, to the Canadian border in the north, through California, Oregon and Washington. The trail is, over 2,600 miles in total so the author covers only part of it, in a trip that will take her around three months. That’s enough! The terrain is inhospitable, the landscapes change from desert to snowy mountain top, which means that, since she carries almost all of what she needs with her, she requires clothing and equipment for a wide range of climatic conditions. The year that she chooses to travel happens to be one of the worst for snowfall in the mountains. The journey is treacherous enough so Cheryl decides, like all but the most intrepid of hikers, to bypass the worst affected part of the trail and rejoin lower down.

The Pacific Crest Trail

Cheryl’s constant companion on her hike is ‘Monster’, the name she gives her enormous backpack. It is monstrously heavy and carrying it gives her constant pain, from the agonies of bearing the weight, to the blisters and open wounds it wears on her hips. Her other source of pain is her boots, bought in good faith, but which turn out to be too small for a hike of this type and which lead to various foot problems, including blackened and lost toenails. But these burdens, the pains, the wounds, are a metaphor for the emotional pain that she is enduring, and as she grows fitter and stronger, and as she learns to beat her immense discomfort, so she learns to live with her grief and to make peace with her suffering. This journey is a meditation on pain. It is therapy.

The book would not be as interesting if it were a trail diary alone. Rather, it is part memoir, as the author gives us the background to her life, to the decline and fall that brought her to the momentous decision to undertake such an enormous mental and physical challenge. It is also a lesson in how sometimes the toughest things can be the most important. The author meets people on the trail with whom she develops lasting bonds and learns that she has depths of resourcefulness that she did not know she had. There are also moments of peril – when her pre-packed supply box does not arrive at the ranger station on time, when she loses a boot over the side of a mountain and has to hike for several days in her camp sandals, attached to her feet by duck tape, when she meets two suspicious characters, ostensibly out to hike and fish, but who seem to take an unnatural interest in the fact she is alone, and then ruin her water purifier to boot.

This is a fascinating story that I thoroughly enjoyed. I was on holiday when I read it and began fantasising about long-distance walking trails! Perhaps just the Trans-Pennine for me though – I don’t think I need anything on this scale!

Highly recommended.